Thursday, January 2, 2014

A Little More Remote

After the fish market, we head further away from "civilization" into the bush.
 
 
Our main goal for the morning is the Siné-Saloum Delta, where we take a boat ride through the mangroves.
 
 
While the bird life isn't as impressive as at Djoudj, it's still what would be considered great bird watching anywhere else.
 

Plus, it's tranquil and lovely. Though I like to see and do everything that can be seen and done, even I will admit that sometimes on vacation it's nice to feel relaxed and just enjoy the surroundings. In this case, it's nice for us city-folk to be out of Paris and in the middle of nature. The girls even get to drive the boat.
 
 
 
For lunch, our guide takes us to "La Saint-Louisienne," which makes sense since he's from Saint Louis. We have barracuda yassa (marinated, grilled, served with rice and stewed onions), and I have to say that this little dive, which uses the back yard dirt floor as its kitchen space, produces the most delicious fish I eat the entire Senegal trip. And the shrimp isn't bad, either. And no food poisoning.
 
 
 
 
 
After lunch, which takes an incredibly long time (I guess dirt floor kitchens aren't super-efficient), we head to the Jaol-Fadiouth area, which is more commonly called Shell Island. At first, we wonder why.
 
 
Then it starts to become clear.
 
 

The prettiest site is the Mixed Muslim and Christian Cemetery which is a bridge apart from the residential zone. The whole area is very tolerant, the guide explains to us, with many mixed marriages. It's one of the few areas of Senegal where the ratio is not 95% Muslim, 5% Christian, but something more like the reverse. We are told that in families with mixed marriages, the girls will generally adopt their mother's religion, and the boys, their father's.

 

It's the Christian part of the cemetery that's open to visitors. One of the inhabitants made it to 104 years old!
 
 
It's not just that there are lots of shells on the island, the island itself is basically made of shells. At the summit of the hill, it's about 9m deep (that's almost 30 feet) of shells. It's very crunchy walking.

 
 
In the end, it's not the most amazing day of the trip, but it's pleasant, and we see some new things, and I'm not complaining. Interestingly, though, it turns out it is also one of the most expensive days of the trip. But one of the ways I bargain the price down is by promising our great guide Ismaïla Sow (who speaks really excellent Italian, Spanish, French, and decent English) that I would publish his contact info to people who might be interested in arranging a trip. So, true to my word, if you're going to Senegal -- and especially the north near Saint Louis -- and need some reliable, honest, high quality tour-guiding, contact him at sowguia@hotmail.com or 77-275-58-66.
 
 
 
 
 

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